Roasted Butternut Squash, Pistachio, and Brown Butter Risotto with Fried Sage Leaves

For the roasted butternut squash: Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Add the butternut squash cubes, then drizzle with the olive oil and season with a generous pinch of kosher salt and some freshly ground black pepper. Toss to coat evenly, then spread over the sheet so the squash cubes all fit in a single layer. Roast for 20 minutes, or until the squash cubes feel soft when you poke them with the tip of a knife. Set aside.

For the brown butter: In a small saucepan (preferably an aluminum saucepan, so you can clearly see the color of the butter changing), melt the butter over medium heat. Lower the heat to medium-low, and let the butter simmer away, swirling the pan frequently. If the butter bubbles up, preventing you from seeing what’s happening (that’s the water evaporating), lift the pot off the heat for a few seconds until the bubbles recede, then put back on the heat. The butter is ready when the milk solids at the bottom of the pot turn a light brown color and the concoction gives off a delicious hazelnut aroma. The process should take 3 to 4 minutes. Remove the butter from the heat, and pour in a small bowl, making sure to scrape all the browned bits off the pan and into the bowl.

For the fried sage leaves: In a small skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat. When the oil shimmers, add the sage leaves, making sure they lay flat in the oil. Fry about a few seconds, keeping a close eye on the skillet, until the sage leaves shrink some. Carefully turn the leaves over and fry for a few seconds more, until they’re dark and crisp. The leaves should not be burnt or black: lift the skillet off from the heat if the leaves seem to fry too quickly. Once done, transfer the leaves to paper towels to drain. Set aside.

For the risotto: Pour the vegetable broth in a saucepan and add the minced sage. Warm over low heat until just simmering, then keep warm.

In a large, shallow pan, or in a round braiser, warm the olive oil over medium heat. Add the minced leek and sauté over low heat until soft, about 5 minutes. Add 1 tbsp (15 ml) of the brown butter (save the rest for service) and the risotto rice and stir 2 minutes. Add the white wine and simmer until the wine is absorbed. Add 1 ladleful broth; stir until the broth is almost completely absorbed. Continue adding broth, one ladleful at a time, allowing each ladle to be absorbed before adding more. Right after adding the last ladleful of broth, add the lemon zest. Risotto is perfectly cooked when it is tender with a little bite, and the mixture is creamy but not stiff.

Lower the heat to the minimum and add the grated Pecorino Romano cheese. Stir until the cheese is melted. Add the roasted squash and half of the chopped pistachio nuts. If the rice seems stiff, add a little more broth to loosen it up just before serving.

To serve: Divide between warm shallow bowls. Sprinkle with the remaining pistachio nuts. Drizzle some of the remaining brown butter over each serving. Sprinkle with a little flaky sea salt and some freshly ground black pepper. Serve immediately.

Recipe Credit: Marie Asselin